Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Part 5, Syangmochen to Ghemi

We have a short walk today after yesterday's stretch. After our usual breakfast (deep-fried Tibetan bread and onion omelet), we pack up and are ready to go.

The start of today's trek is a brisk climb. Again. But with the clouds crashing into the mountainsto the west, there is more humidity now. And in this area, when humidity arrives flowers explode out of the ground with gusto. I'm no botanist, so I have no idea what this flower is. But all of a sudden they were everywhere, and all the formerly grey-green shrubs started sporting yellow or lilac flowers.

We walk on, and the knowledge that today is a short-haul makes it easier to push a little harder at times. We complete the hike in time for lunch, settle in and explore the little village of Ghemi.

We find the village to be similar to most other villages we have passed through. Mostly farms clustered together, with green fields above and below. All the houses look well-maintained, which stands in stark contrast to most houses you find in the more urban parts of Nepal where decay is the common denominator.

Our guide tells us that the farmers we lodge with in this area are rich. They have goat-herds, and they bring them to Pokhara in early autumn after fattening them up on mountain grasses during summer. They fetch good prices, and their investment is next to nothing. The herd builds itself and grazing is free. I again marvel at how profits make it possible to do things properly.

By any Western standard, these people are poor and have next to nothing. By their standards they are rich, and compared to most Nepalis they are very well off. Yet old traditions are retained here, and ancient ways of life remain. In case of illness, they paint a red cross above the entrance to the house and call in a monk for chanting. We walked by a Japanese-sponsored hospital on the way where there was not a soul to be seen... Life here is different.

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